Famo Adventure Motorcycling Guide

Imagine you've lived in your small, dusty desert city all of your life, taking out the trash, shopping at the markets, maybe running a small camel butchery. Two kilometres from the town centre there sits the old town, a citadel, a majestic arg built 2500 years ago by your great ancestors. The citadel was the original incarnation of your modern town, consisting of a massive fortress overlooking the maze of rabbit-warrens and dens that comprised the living quarters and workplaces of the people... read more >>

My first night in Iran was spent sleeping off the day's hair-raising activities in my very neat hotel room. It's hard to describe how welcome a hot shower is after weeks under the cold tap, but rest-assured I gave myself a good scrubbing and came out looking like... read more >>

The Taftan border was a killer, a busload of Pakistani tourists having arrived at the immigration office about five minutes before I arrived. I waited almost an hour until one of the young guys in the line suggested I push in because I was a foreigner. Looking around at the people in the line, they all seemed to encourage me forward so I walked through and was stamped out within minutes. It was lucky because the massive sand storms I'd experienced along the stretch towards the border looked to me to be very rain-filled and aggressive on the Iranian side... read more >>